Schilo's Delicatessen
424 E. Commerce
San Antonio
(210) 223-6692
There is little in this world that reminds me of Germany more acutely than the smell of cooked red cabbage. I get sentimental at the mere smell of it, and the only thing to do is reduce that bowl of shredded roughage to a shallow puddle of purple juice. I don't have to go far in San Antonio to get my fix. Basically, I have two options: I can either wait for a periodic brouhaha at the King William biergarten of the Beethoven Männerchor, or head to Schilo's Delicatessen. While I much prefer the former for pure beer-swilling, chicken-dancing, oompa-oompa madness, the latter is perfect for a filling lunch at one of the finest German eateries in the Lone Star state (and with a quick glance at my name, you can assume I know a thing or two about the matter). Since the Schilo family landed in San Antonio in 1914, the name has become an institution synonymous with cheap eats and tasty treats. And not for nothing. The deli — in decor, price, and fare — is a throwback to the golden days of pioneer sensibilities and pure Deutsche grit. - Tucker Teutsch III
